Mamechiyo, like myself, fell in appreciate with kimono at a flea sector. She began to purchase and sell them at rental galleries along the JR Chuo line.
In 2000, she opened a little vintage kimono store in Nishi Ogikubo. Of system, I visited it. She became conscious that a lot of women of all ages loved the Taisho interval kimono she was providing, but they didn’t acquire them because they had been as well little.
Then, in 2003, she printed a e-book which was groundbreaking for the time. “Mamechiyo’s Kimono Modern” showed photos of Mamechiyo in kimono sitting down in a launderette, or a CD shop ー in every day areas, putting on her Taisho period kimono.
She had pop add-ons, and the full e-book was created with a retro mindset. At the time there have been couple of relaxed kimono images being posted, so the ebook had a revolutionary feeling to it. It was just before the days when absolutely everyone was wired.
Shifting Route to Match Today’s Girls
In 2003 Mamechiyo also begun her new brand name and store, “Mamechiyo Fashionable,” in Nishi Ogikubo. Her model signature design and style was to reproduce the patterns of the Taisho period of time on bigger sized kimono, in quick to treatment for polyester. She experienced a client in publishing, Tanabe Mayumi, who liked “Mamechiyo Fashionable,” and a new mook, (journal book) Kimono Hime (Shodensha, 2003) was born.
This guide distribute the aesthetic of Taisho kimono between youthful individuals. It was also exceptional in its layout, like a graphic and trendy trend journal, relatively than a kimono magazine. It was well-known with designers and artists as nicely as kimono fans.
Mamechiyo suggests that the two society and subculture are important, and she is intrigued in (and operating with) the two. If there is no tradition, there is no subculture, so both are necessary for tradition to remain nutritious.
She is also intrigued in European tradition, specifically in the textiles and styles of the Netherlands. She would include a European sensation into her kimono layouts, tulips, lace, rabbits and ribbons, and top it all off with flowered headdresses.
Mamechiyo’s curiosity in all varieties of lifestyle is obvious in her collaborations with several various corporations above the years. She has worked with Blythe Dolls, Shu Uemura cosmetics and a lot of other folks, and has taught about kimono on NHK (countrywide tv) Oshyare Koubou, and at Waseda University.
Finding Affect and Spreading Strategies Abroad
Mamechiyo went from power to power, opening a store in Marui in Shinjuku in 2009. Then in 2011, she moved to Amsterdam and continued her things to do from her European base.
She states that she could truly feel Edo in the metropolis of Amsterdam. The center of Amsterdam is slice up by canals, and the speed of the heart of the town is the velocity of a bicycle. Mamechiyo imagines that Edo moved at a similar velocity, and that many goods were being moved on the canals that were being carved into the metropolis.
She stayed in Amsterdam right until 2019 and she says that her time there taught her a large amount about color and structure, about kimono fitting into architecture and environments, and also about the this means of pleasure.
Although she was there, her work did not escape the discover of the key European museums, and in 2012 she experienced a piece decided on for the Victoria and Albert museum’s exhibition “Kitty and the Bulldog” which highlights the subculture of Japan and the British isles.
In 2015 she manufactured a kimono with a Van Gogh painting on it for the Van Gogh museum shop. Her kimono in the Victoria and AIbert museum was exhibited yet again in 2020 for the “Kyoto to Catwalk” exhibition.
In Amsterdam she did some spectacular photograph shoots of her operates. This concerned bringing a full team of gurus from Japan for doing hair, make-up, lights and images. She stated that the outcomes seem a whole lot of pleasurable, but the shoots ended up extremely hard get the job done, anyone remaining up as a result of the night to observe and get the appears perfect.
Manner Connecting to Today
In 2021 Mamechiyo closed her shop in Marui, and is now concentrating on her on-line store. She is purposely holding the business enterprise smaller so she can control what transpires and do what she loves. She will also keep pop-up shops periodically. She is open to acquiring her function exhibited in other retailers or kimono shops.
Right until now, all kimono have been pret-a-porter, but she is altering her way a minimal. She is now fascinated in making couture one particular-off merchandise for people today, and in owning a personal romantic relationship with her consumers.
We met at her collaboration pop-up shop with the hat designer Keiko Igata. She informed me that kimono is inclusive, and it welcomes anyone. It connects with everyday living and with location and with architecture.
It is tradition, but she would like to make kimono for now, and kimono that individuals want to don. It can be a way of self-expression and it has the electric power to lighten one’s experience, even in this time when it is challenging to go out.
Mamechiyo showed me her obi created with reused kimono materials, with the addition of sequins and embroidery. They are strengthened with polyester linings. She also showed me her new 3D ribbon obi. Just by tying a common drum bow, it seems to be like a large ribbon on the wearer’s again. In black satin, this obi could be worn on common clothes or with a kimono.
Mamechiyo’s originality ー and her quest to make kimono for now ー shine by. Her foreseeable future is bright, and so is that of her present-day kimono.
Locate other columns on kimono by author Sheila Cliffe, below.
Author: Sheila Cliffe